Is a synthetic stone a fake?

In my last post I talked about synthetic gemstones and how they're not all that uncommon in old jewelry. The discussion brought to mind the question about fakes. More specifically, is a synthetic stone a fake? Most people in "the business" would say no - as long as the seller accurately represents it.

Synthetic gemstones contain the same chemical and crystal structure of the natural counterpart. So they will both have the same refractive index and specific gravity. But the process by which a synthetic ruby, for example, is made in a laboratory or manufacturing facility creates tell-tale flaws, called inclusions, inside the stone which are visible under a microscope. A good gemologist should have no trouble telling the difference between the inclusions in natural vs synthetic stones.

But what happens when you inherit the fabulous diamond and "emerald" ring Uncle Joe bought for Aunt Martha? At the time he bought it, the jeweler may well have fully disclosed the true nature of the stone to Joe, as he should have. If so, her new synthetic emerald made a perfectly fine affordable substitute for the gemstone Aunt Martha always dreamed of owning but never would be able to afford.

The problem arises if Uncle Joe and Aunt Martha never told you it wasn't "real" and now you own what you believe to be a natural emerald ring. Imagine what might happen if someday you decide to sell it and represent it as a real diamond ring (as it actually is) with a flawless natural emerald. That would make it a fake and you a fraud, even if you are operating in good faith.

The moral of this story is threefold. 1) Respect every piece of jewelry for what it really is. Natural stones are fabulous, but synthetics have their place. 2) If you're going to sell a gemstone, represent it accurately. That might mean paying for an appraisal. 3) If you own synthetic gemstones, store your documentation with them or where it will be sure to be found. That way your heirs never have to wonder.

Happy hunting.

Terri